Siberian Winter

We've recently learned how spoiled we were to arrive in Russia when we did. It was cold when we first got here, but warmed up into the 70s very quickly. Nearly ten months later we're learning why Siberia has the reputation it does.

We have been very blessed with a warm fall and winter this year. Warm, meaning warmer than usual for Siberia, not the balmy weather you've been experiencing in Salt Lake. According to one weather website, last winter here the temperatures averaged about 15 F degrees colder than they've been this year. We've been lovin' it. However, many of the younger missionaries (whose bones don't creak yet) have been praying for the opportunity to experience winter in all its frozen glory, and our reprieve has ended. There have been a few times when the temperature hovered around -30 F overnight. It generally gets up to -25 during the day, and sometimes even warmer. Because of our extremely limited language skills, in the past we've been glad senior couples have different responsibilities and don't knock on doors or street contact. Now we're glad for another reason not go have to be out in such cold weather.

There is a lot of frozen beauty. Dave's been busy snapping pictures around the city.


We've mentioned before that there is a delightful sense of personal responsibility here. They don't worry about obstacles on the walkways--that's for individuals to watch out for and avoid. At times they knock icicles off the eaves, and they do temporarily block off the sidewalk while they're doing it. That's the extent of it. They don't clean up below. No one is bothered by it and they all just walk around whatever is there.


Remember that cute little enclosed balcony area in our apartment we told you about back in October (our post on 10/9)? And that it isn't heated or insulated? There was so much cold air streaming into our bedroom that we finally put blankets over the opening. Yes, blankets. One wasn't enough. Now the balcony is fully enclosed. The temperature behind the blankets keeps dropping. Right now it's about 16 F. Between the blankets and an extra portable heater, our room stays at about 68 F. The windows in the apartment are in sets--one window on the outside and then about a 3" gap and another window. In November Dave weatherstripped both sets of windows on the balcony, and it's still that cold.

The weatherstripped double windows on the balcony

The sun through the icy window

Last Wednesday was something like "National Baptism Day" when people cut holes in the ice and swim in the river. It's supposed to be a very healthy thing to do. We were told the rivers throughout all of Russia are clean and pure and holy on that day. We heard about 200 people took the dive in Novokuznetsk. We weren't among them. We wish we'd heard about it before it happened so we could watch, but at the same time we're relieved we didn't know, 'cause that meant we didn't have to go outside!

Even with cold temperatures the Russians go about their activities as normal, just all bundled up. They don't seem to mind being out in the cold. Many Russians are surprised that we have so much snow and temperatures that drop below 0 F in Salt Lake. A few people in our group at English Club in Barnaul thought we were exaggerating when we told them that there are places in the US and Canada that get as cold as here; they honestly thought that there's no way temperatures get to -40 anywhere outside of Siberia.

They don't use snow melt or salt on the walks, although sometimes they do throw down a little gravel mixed with dirt on busy walkways and by some bus stops. In a few places we can see that the walk in front of a doorway is swept (they can't sweep off the hard-packed snow, but the loose stuff on top has been swept away.) Things are often icy and slippery, but they take it all in stride. We've been surprised that we don't see a lot of people slipping around. However, the snow isn't very slippery when temperatures get so cold, but ice is just as slippery. They clear the roads every night, mostly with a series of a kind of street sweeper, and then haul away the snow that accumulates at the edges. There are very few icy patches on the roads and they go away quickly. Drivers don't seem to have any problems. So far we haven't seen more accidents than we did a few months ago, even though we often see cars zip along. We think all the tires must have studs.

This week in Novokuznetsk:
We're getting lots of use out of our warm winter outerwear. They really know how to dress for the cold! We thought you might be interested in seeing how we stay warm and manage to get around.

Dave's coat has a removable down liner, so it's good for cold weather and really cold weather.

Dave's "shapka" (hat)

Ready to go. Men really do wear the ear flaps like that. However, Dave can pull them together under his chin for a little more warmth if it gets much colder.

Boots are essential. Most women have several pair. Arline has one pair for wet and muddy and not so cold days (middle) and one pair for really cold days (on the right). The dots on the bottom are spikes that make it so we're not afraid to go anywhere. They're on stretchable rubber that slips over the boot/shoe like the old galoshes used to do.

Dave's boots are very warm with extra fur inside, and the zipper makes it easy to slip them off and on. It's especially nice since we do that every time we go in someone's home.

This cute little hat is essential, even under the hood of the coat. When it's not too cold, the hat is warm enough without the hood. However, Arline still wears her ear bags (individual ear muffs) under the hat.

The fur around the hood is all black. The white is ice from Arline's breath during a 10-minute walk. She's been amazed at how the fur around the hood keeps her face warm, even when it's so cold.

P.S. Christmas continues. This week we got a care package and 3 Christmas cards that may very well have been sitting in N'sibirsk since shortly after we came back from our visa trip. Christmas, the season that keeps on giving, what with slow mail service to Russia!